When the mountains call: running the Tour du Mont Blanc Part 1
- Andy Hood
- Oct 20, 2023
- 5 min read
When the mountain calls – running the Tour du Mont-Blanc
Heart pounding in the noticeably thinner air, a sky deeper blue than you’ve ever seen, a trail, rocky and rugged behind you, another stretched out ahead as far as the eye can see twisting and turning down the mountain like a ribbon that has been thrown from the top. The bright white of snow-capped mountains and dark greys of towering rock so ancient its stories tell of the formation of our planet. Voices of the wind as it rumbles over mountain top and through deep gorged valleys.
You stand, circling 360 degrees, eyes feasting on views that feel primeval, or of lush green valley’s full of life thousands of feet below.
Today you are making memories that will last a lifetime, will create stories you will recall to yourself and others time and time again. Emotions so strong that no words or pictures will ever describe how you felt in that moment. You made these memories yesterday and will again tomorrow.
In August 2023 I boarded a flight from Bristol to Geneva, headed for the start of an adventure; the Tour du Mont-Blanc. An adventure of trail running through three countries, over challenging terrain, through pine forests, high alpine pastures and tucked away villages where time stands still. An experience so visceral it questions what I’ve achieved to date and where I am headed.
Standing high above Chamonix I tried to remember how I’d first become aware of the Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB) or what first led me to the website of Altitude Mont Blanc, the tour company I would choose to manage the 5 days running round this iconic European location. I don’t clearly recall but suspected that it was perhaps a post on Instagram, maybe someone who was on the trail or picture of the well-known Mountain White. In that moment I was thankful for whatever got me to this point. Ahead of me 5 days of trail running through France, Switzerland, and Italy.
Through the miles ahead I’d meet many people who the mountain had called. As the days progressed it became clear to me you do not make the decision alone to run or hike the TMB, you must wait to be called by the mountain, it knows when it is your time. This majestic, mythical mountain yields a force so powerful and magical, reaching into your life and drawing you toward it.
The Tour du Mont-Blanc charts a 170 kilometre elliptical mountain route through France, Italy and Switzerland; it’s a rite of passage for thousands of hikers every year. Many called to the mountain for personal reasons, I’d meet several hikers along the way, stories told and shared. There is a well signed official route, green TMB markers on signposts clearly indicating the way, although you do need a nose for direction as you can take a wrong turn or be unsure of the trail to take. The area is criss crossed with hundreds of trails and side trails, you can deviate from the official route, perhaps to take in a lower elevation in poor weather or admire a view at a higher altitude.
Many hikers take around 10 – 12 days to complete, I’d chosen to travel at a faster pace and was looking to complete in 5. As it turned out my training leading up to TMB meant I ticked of the daily miles usually by early afternoon. It would be a mix of trail running and power hiking, some of the trails are just not runnable, they are too steep.
The official route starts in the village of Les Houches, the name conjuring up memories of 1990’s alco-pops, Houch was a lemonade drink with a serious kick and before I gave up alcohol I confess to drinking one or two. Unlike the tacky nature of an alcoholic lemonade Les Houches is a pretty village with a scattering of shops, cafes and restaurants. Carefully positioned at the end of the village square is a large Tour du Mont-Blanc arch, the start and end point for thousands each year, photographs a many of enthusiastic starters and tearful completers.
I’d chosen to book my tour through Altitude Mont Blanc, and what a great decision that turned out to be. Their pre tour communication was first class, but the app they provided me with called Roadbook for Discovery was next level awesome. I downloaded this before leaving the UK to find each of my 5 days neatly laid out, containing a description of the day, full GPS mapping with voice navigation and details of the overnight stops. On booking there was a choice of Classic or Comfort. Classic sees you overnighting in either refuges in the mountains or in local, usually family run, small guest houses or hotels. Classic will have you sleeping dormitory style in a room with perhaps 8 – 10 others. As a chronic sleep talker, according to my wife, and someone who has reached an age where I need to get up and visit the bathroom in the middle of the night it was little surprise I chose the Comfort option, this means your own private room. I was never one for sharing!
The app also gives you details on water refill locations, which in the mountains is most welcome, possible stops for food, and to my surprise a doorbell ‘ding-dong’ every so often that indicates you should look at the phone and see some interesting snippet of information about where you are. This I loved very much.
Arriving in Chamonix the day prior to my departure I had time to explore, and in the spirit of Comfort had booked myself into a 4-star spa hotel for the night, well I need my little luxury’s. Chamonix was busy, and seeing as how beautiful the town is set against the simply breath-taking mountain backdrop I was not surprised. It wasn’t hard to find some peace through, I found a boulangerie and chose a ham and cheese baguette, looked on Google maps, found a little park just behind the main street and headed there. It was bliss. A green oasis filled with mature trees giving dappled shade. A few hikers were resting on their packs taking a well-deserved break, couples chatted nosily with the spirit of young love, and others ambled about through the paths intersecting the park. I sat on a long log bench, enjoyed my lunch, and then laid down and with closed eyes took in the sounds of Chamonix.
I enjoyed an afternoon pottering around and found myself at another large open green space where paragliders were coming into land. I sat here for an hour or so watching the bright colours of the parachutes and seeing the excited faces of children as they run up to Mum or Dad who had just landed after their tandem ride. Could there have been a better way to prepare me for running the mountains, I don’t think so. I could feel myself falling for everything Chamonix had to offer.
Comments